Saturday, January 17
Upland Holistic Development Project
Saturday, January 10
Sun & Surf in Thailand
According to the 2005 version of Lonely Planet, Koh Tao is a gem precisely because locals don’t spend their time catering to tourists, and even electricity hasn’t reached the island. It’s amazing how much a place can change in just four years: now, I’d say 95% of the island’s economy is tourism-based, the place is covered in resorts, restaurants, and adventure sports outfitters. And as for the electricity – it’s everywhere.
The scuba course was four days long, and began with a number of boring instructional videos. The first two days we also did foolish bubble-blowing activities in shallow water. So when it came to day three, I was numbed into expecting very little from diving, and it came as a pleasant surprise when all of a sudden I found myself at the bottom of a beautiful coral reef, freed from gravity’s constraint, and able to navigate a National Geographic setting myself. We made it on four dives, each about forty minutes, to a maximum of fifteen meters. What I never realized about diving is that you have to pretty consciously control your buoyancy – each inhalation and exhalation changes the volume of your lungs, and sends you up or down. After a couple of minutes with the bizarre sensation, you get used to it and buoyancy maneuvering becomes second-nature. It truly was the coolest experience – we got up-close and personal with the most bizarre neon fish, did back-flips on the sandy bottom, and had an underwater dance party. We saw stingrays and barracudas, not to mention sea cucumbers galore.
In transit we spent a night on a larger island, Koh Samui, where I had a pretty striking experience walking back to our hotel through the red light district (safely, with Sandy). Tiny little open-air bars lined the main street, competing music blaring from the speakers, and prostitutes blatantly promoting their bars. Thailand had a large stake in the sex-tourism industry, and though it’s illegal, it’s also largely overlooked. I looked up the issue online, and learned that in Koh Samui, a small little beach town, there are more than 10,000 prostitutes. Having just read a book on modern-day slavery (A Crime So Monstrous, by Benjamin Skinner) the walk through the bar neighborhood was particularly unsettling. I have no idea what proportion of those girls were coerced into their positions, but I also sense that women with economic options choose to go into the business. So far we’ve also seen a couple of lady-men, whose presence is proportionally high in Thailand because it’s culturally acceptable for men to transform themselves into women.
We’ve been pretty cloistered away on a touristy island, so it makes sense that I haven’t seen any indication of the recent political unrest. I wonder how much evidence of it we’ll see later on in the trip, when we go north to study sustainable agriculture in rural homestays.
Thursday, January 1
Final Weeks in Vietnam
After celebrating Christmas with the group in Quy Nhon, I visited Nha Trang on independent student travel with Emily and Renee. We spent a couple of nights in the backpacker’s beach town, in a little hostel just five minutes’ walk from the ocean. Of course, it’d been sunny all month while we were stuck in sweaty Ho Chi Minh City, but once we reached the shore, it clouded over and drizzled. We got a couple of hours of sun in, lying on the beach, enough to redden a bit. Other than that, we enjoyed the little town: we had an amazing Indian meal, homemade ice cream, browsed the book exchange shops, played badminton. It was a fun challenge to make our own hostel reservations, secure bus tickets back to Ho Chi Minh, and be in charge of all our own meals.
We celebrated the New Year at a fancy hotel party where there was a buffet, live music and performance, and a balloon cascade at midnight. New Year’s isn’t a very important holiday in Vietnam, but in Ho Chi Minh City it’s celebrated in certain neighborhoods. The entire hotel district was decked out in more lighting than during Christmas, and one street was even named “Times Square”.
Not long afterwards, we were having our last Vietnamese iced coffees and on our way to the airport to head for Thailand ...